24th of July 1999. We stood in the front of our flat, with all equipment, to start a great adventure, adventure to... unknown. And, simultaneously, to say goodbye family. We didn't know that waits for us 32 days spending far away from home and friends. Wonderful days, sunny days, but simultaneously, very hard, tiring and full of longing. So, who is curious, let read and click, and who don't... let regret.

At the beginning we have to write a few words of explanation which let to understand, maybe in some prat, the logic of our decisions. First of all, one of us (nothing to hide - Chris) had almost none physical preparations to this campaign. Except one, two days long trip from Dabrowa Gornicza to Makow Podhalanski. So we planned to spend a few days in Poland, cycling directly to the east. It turned out that on the third day we have already left our beutiful country... But in turn.

On the first day we took the liberty of some visiting. We visited Kalwaria Zebrzydowska. It was worth changing clothes in these which let us went to a holy place as it was Basilica oo. Bernardyn's. It made a great impression. On the way we also visited ruins of the castle in Dobczyce and there we have had planned an accomodation on the campsite. But we decided cycling a little bit more that day. But an ironic twist of fate wanted that 5 kilometres before Gdow, the place of our first campsite, Romek had a flat in his rear tyre. It's easy thing to repair, but in this conditions it took us almost one hour. Those all bags on the carner little disturbed us. But you are wrong, our reader, if you think that it was all sensations that day. Well, it turned out that there was, naturally, a campsite in this city, but at this very moment there was some kind of gala for handicapped children that day. The one and only tent on this campsite was ours!!! [see the photo] After a little bit noisy night we woke up next day ready to further riding. Of course after consumption very nutritious breakfast.

On the very hot second day we managed to chill ourselves in Dunajec and other, smaller rivers. But we didn't forget about interesting places. This time we managed to deviate a little bit off road and see country manor of I. Paderewski in Kasna Dolna. One moment after treated us beautiful forms of wayside rocks before Zborowice, and in Zborowice... equally beautiful girls. They were dressed in folk clothes. Probably they got scared because of us! Maybe if we have different clothes and be less bald.? But luckily we weren't threw from the restaurant and we ate very needful dinner in Gorlice. That day finished in Nowy Zmigrod. It was one of two accomodations during all expedition, which we didn't spend in tent. We slept in the school, which serves as youth hotel during holidays. It was full of children in that time.

Another day our expenditure became very interesting and varied because of suddenly ending roads, riding dirty roads etc. It was a sign that we crossed the border of Bieszczady. After a little deliberation in Krosno we decided to leave Poland. Why? We felt our physical forms weren't so bad. So we chose to go to the south. We were planning to reach Vien and then to wonder where we ride after. So we rode to the south and saw very beautiful Iwonicz Zdroj. After walking by the mountains (exactly - walking by, because the road has ended) we reached a town called Dukla and after that - Barwinek. In this town we had first customs. Very fast customs. And afterwards - very fast downhill which was broken for several minutes because of photo-session near the military objects from the Second World War. Finally we got to Nova Kelca, where we've seen big difference in attitude to some matters at once. First of all, a campsite marked on the map by the river or lake, seemed to be very freely available. But it has basic equipment, including hot water. It was our first and simultanously the last free accomodation and the last (first was in Gdow), where we had to keep our bikes in tent.

Another day, on the 27th of July, we continued our trip by Slovakian roads. Our very important observation was that compared with Polish traffics on Slovakia situation is much better. It made our trip much more pleasant, of course. On that day we crossed the Slovakian-Hungarian border. Already first "pit-stop" in Hungary, concretly a visit in a post office in order to buy stamps, realized us how tough will be in this land. It was very hard to buy those stamps to Poland but we had to buy them at last. Let's try to read the name of the city in which one of us has a picture at The Kossuth Monument. That day we chose the accomodation in Sarospatak. And here, contradict a little bit words we have written before, we met with nice surprise. Full price list and regulations of the campsite was in polish version too. Even more, this campsite was full of polish kids. We became some kind of entertainment for them that evening. Since that camping site until the end of our campaign surrounded us very good standard at the campsites. Of course we had to paid for it much more, but in the other hand we were sure that our bikes and tent will be safe, even if we go outside the campsite.

Another day we started a road which in great majority goes near the Tisa river. We had to use ferries to go into the the other side of the river several time. And one thing, that we want to emphasize, is that Hungarians, who we had met, were very nice and helpful people. Example! One day it happened that we passed by the slip road to the ferry crossing (how could we know that Rev means crossing and not the name of the city?) and we had to turned back a little bit. We stayed with unfold map near the intersection, which we suspected this is the road to ferry crossing. Suddenly, we had seen a reversing car. One man got out of the car and confirmed us that we had chosen the right way. Right after we had crossed the river, about an hour later, we met another surprise. It was T-char-shaped intersection, and we were standing like two posts and thinking to turn right or left. An old man on a little old bike was coming to us. He wanted to help us. How did he make it? Simply put us straight on the right way. We knew that it wasn't on his way. The same day we managed to see Tokaj. But we had to resign of the vines consumption - the reason was obvious.

On the next day riding through country none traffic roads we were coming closer and closer to the capital of Hungary. At the end of that day we got to the Budapest. We founded a campsite, but we had travelled almost all city to make it. The camping was very near Duna river, which isn't as clean as we supposed it should be.

For the next day we have planned to visit Budapest a little bit. And it just happened. Of course visiting means not the same what you are thinking. The difference was in the fact that we have prepared the plan of riding across the Budapest to see as much as it was possible (we were trying to did it when we were passing through most of greater cities and towns). We think, that we managed to made it. About what, in small part, may show all the pictures. About 2 pm. we left Budapest and riding the bikes route by the Duna river we admired views of the very beautiful Hungarian scenery. The place of our next pit-stop fall in Viszogrod. In the same one, where the Group Wyszehradzka Treatment had been signed. Just in this castle, which you can see on the photo (poorly, but on the hill there is a castle for 100%).

On the last day of July we said goodbye to the Hungarian land. But before it happened we had visited more precisely The Basilica in Estergom, one of the greatest in Hungary. Looking very precisely at photos you can see (except some of us was very aslept) that two parts of the city were connected by the bridge some day. We left Hungary in Komarno. And we welcomed Slovakia again. That time we had a campsite in its capital. Why will we remember Bratislava? First and foremost because of innumerable amount of mosquitos. Real horror! The blood was everywhere. Pity that it was only ours blood.

But Bratislava it's not only mosquitos. It's very narrow streets, Hrad and... city of flowing pepsi too. [see the photo]. Definitely different city than Budapest. But here we had met one unpleasant adventure - searching cash machine in order to pay for eaten dinner. It turned out that stickers on the restaurant windows with the names of the credit cards weren't true in our case. Because Bratislava is not far away from Vien we reached it the same day. But before we found a campsite in the suburbs of Vien we had survived first rain on this expedition. Although it was very short, it was very intensive too. All road from Bratislava to Vien we rode by the bikes route. We were jealous that we hadn't have such routes here in Poland. Marking, preparing, infrastructure. There is something to eat and somewere to rest. Simply full culture of riding on the bike.

Similarly Vien, which we have visited on the 9th day of our trip. All was ridden by the bikes routes. And Vien - we aren't surprised Strauss that he were composing here so long. Simply you want to live here! Though if we live hear much longer we will have different opinion? We don't know. But Vien is beautiful. There is one more thing, which we have observed during our stay in the capital of Austria. Many, many people go in for several disciplines. Fact, that they have many places to make it (many bikes routes, parks, sport centers etc.), but we were very surprised. Summing up, on the 2nd of August we rode from the one end of Vien to the second one.

Oh, we almost forgot. Vien, how it has been written at the beginning, was an intermediate destination of our expedition. But we didn't expected that already after 11 days we will by passing by crossed out table with the caption Vien. Then we made a decision that we would be going to the south towards Italy. We didn't talked about it loud, but we desired to reach Paris. We didn't talked about it too much because we were convinced that we were able to make it. Subconciously we felt that we can't think about things which will happen, but we should be delighted by every single day leading us to the end. And since that moment, that is when we left Vien, the lowlands have finished, and driweways and downhills have begun. Maybe they weren't Swiss Alps, but it left one's stamp on our bodies. Especially as continously heat was very exhausting. Just from Vien on all the way to Italian-Austrian border we rode by the most beautiful part of our expedition. Just for those pictures and views it was worth to climbing for many hours, really. Mountains reached by walk or on the bike always make a respect. They made that man simultaneously is getting smaller to its power and is growing when he may admire them.

On the 3rd of August we, concretly Chris, had one more adventure. Then he was really angry because of that, but now... oh, it is something I can talk and talk about... What did happen? During climbing on one of the hills Chris took off his blouse on the begining of very steep driveway. He put in on the bags to let it dry up a little bit. After a several bends and about one km of riding he orientaded that there was no blouse at the place where he put it. Bad luck wants, that this blouse felt down at the very begining. So, that day Chris had 3 kilometers additional bike. Although on the top of the hill he rode with big smile on his face. Completing we want to tell that that day has finished in Sant Sebastian.

Another day we have continued to ride on very undulating and picturesques routes. That day started our first, very serious problems too. Several kilometers before Graz, where we have planned our another campsite, bikes route was a litle bit wet because of very small rain. It was small, but serious, that we have to know what means wet surface. Riding strongly too fast on those conditions firstly Chris has felt over, and brother, riding nearby behind me, had to made the same thing to avoid of riding on me. It really looked very serious that time. Our glasses were on the ground and we were scared to think, what will hapen, if only one of us will lost them (of course we hadn't a spare ones). But we had luck in bad luck - founded, after several minutes, glasses on the ground seemed to be in good shape. But our bodies didn't looked as well as our glasses. Our left hips and hands were a little bit ripped. And we felt it very much during our baths in Graz, where we rode after several hours after the crash. Later it turned out that this one and only, more than one day long accomodation in one place, we have spent on the most expensive campsite of all expedition. On this camping we have our tent, as it turned out, nearly a man coming from Poland. So, this evening we have spent in company of first person, since we left our country, speaking in Polish language. He was very hospitable and gave us a big piece of pork loin.

And nobody knows, if it was because we ate that pork loin, or it didn't, but that day we have met another problems - apart from pain after crash - problems with our stomachs. Romek all day long layed in the tent going out only then, when he needed to. And Chris? Chris was busy with making little cleanings. I checked technical condition of our bikes (I hadn't have much to do - almost everything was in good shape), and later I started to search needle and thread. What for? The reason was Chris wanted to sew onto our bags symbols of all those countries, which we have already visited. For many, many years I hadn't have a needle in my hands and... and it showed! But then Chris was very proud of himself. In the evening Chris had longing thoughts observing exquisite sunset. Soon Chris came back to the tent, where he felt down to deep sleep together with Romek.

Another day our aches had gone a little bit and we decided to go ahead. But we had to get dressed like an alians from Mars. Why? For the first time since we left home day seemed to be cloudy and rainy. But it turned out that our expectations about the weather were wrong. And after 15 minutes our green capes were in the place of its destination, that is in our bags. This day has written in our memory very strongly too. Well, we have climbed on the longest hill of this expedition (about 3,5 hours of climbing) and simultanously the fastest downhill from the same hill, even in our history (10 kilometres in 15 minutes with one pit-stop for the picture). After shopping in Lavamund, the road passed much easier and careful. This day also was memorable because of the most beautiful campsite of all trip - at the foot of the mountain, with lovely scenery on picturesques hills. In the evening we survived very strange storm - without rain, but thunders were amazing! In that moment we didn't know, that the next day will give us much more adrenaline...

And it started, of course, from the wake up, day by day better and longer and good breakfast. During that day the storm showed its face again, this time giving rain on thirsty ground. But it wasn't so long and we continued the trip to the Asutrian-Italian border in Arnoldstein still observing lovely views. Right after we crossed the border it started...

We were riding very slowly (accomodation was planned in Tarviso, 10 kilometres from border) having very steep, rocky slope, ended at its foot by a ditch on the right hand side and views like on the picture, on the left. Just then Romek, riding very close to this ditch, has lost balance and felt down. And Chris made the same right after - on the middle of the road. Fortunately, any of passing cars didn't drove too fast. We have lifted ourselves very fast and we found that, except Romek's knee and losen lights, there was no serious injuries. With hope for bathing the wounds and finding a campsite we rode into Tarviso. But our surprise was very great when it turned out that the camping, naturally, was here, but... now there was only a ruin. We have rejected the idea of sleeping in the garden of one of the inhabitants at once. Either we were too suspicious or asked Italians weren't too hospitable. The only thing, that we managed to get, was the bottle of cold water to bath Romek's knee. Much faster we have resigned from sleeping at this former "camping". When we saw spiders as large as our hands... What remained to do? The nearest camping were in Slovenia. But it would be return to the very high mountains (we have to add that on our meters were number 125, what meant the amount of kilometers making that day). And the nearest camping in Italy were in Gemona, sixty kilometres from the place, where we actually were. Dear reader, you surely guess what our decision were? Real madness! But, since the beginning this idea was crazy, didn't it...?

So, we have put the lights on our bikes and we rode again. The fastest two hours during all trip. In two hours time we were in Gemona! How to explained it? We have only one explanation to this - similarly like in soccer. The game may not going well for us, there may be goalposts and crossbars, the player may get red card and just that red card can make the team will feel there is no chance or... paradoxically, raise team's spirits and pull together. For us it was like a challenge, which simply made us we "flied" on the road. And surely one more thing helped us to did it. Namely in Austria we had to climb on every hill. In Italy mountains mean uncountable numbers of tunnels and bridges. We were riding through a very high mountains, but the road was flat and flat all the time. We were in Gemona at nine pm. very exhausted and very hungry. After unfoldding the tent and making little bath we went to the town to find something to eat (there weren't too much time to make shopping). The one and only trustworthy name of the dish seemed to be a... pasta. Nutritious, but only for a while.

That it turned out after awakening, another day on Sunday. After ating the breakfast made from the leftovers of the food we gone ahead. But already in Gemona our trip was broken because of rain. There we were witnesses of some cycle race, very strange race as regards organizational. But we had to leave the cyclists and we continued ours own race. Then it happened something, that we shouldn't never let happen riding by bikes - to exhausting, more mentally than physically, feeling of hunger. Why did we let to it happen? How could we know, that Sunday for Italians is so holy day, that you can't find open grocer's shop, even in greater cities. The same situation were in the restaurants. Except that the day begun to make very, very hot and even storm, which surprised us, hadn't refresh the air (how rain could refresh the air, if the temperature and wind didn't changed even for a while). At last, hungry as wolves we found a cave, in which we suspected we would have a possibility to eat something. Then it was all the same to us what we will eat. That's why we study the menu with less cautions. And it was our mistake! This thing had innumerable consequences. Not only it was the most expensive dinner during all expedition but also the fastest one. Because it turned out that one of ordered dishes was... "frutti di mare", which could be eatable in every different situation, but not then. The second dish turned out to be very eatable fish, but strongly too little for needs of two stomachs. But, maybe in amazement and disgusted, it was wonder that hungry stopped to nagging us, till we came to the Venezia, where we unfold our tent on the "Marco Polo" campsite placed on its suburb. Then we made very correct decision to visit this city the same day.

We took a bath and about 8 pm. we started walking at streets and bridges of Venezia. During searching the Saint Marco Square we have even met four young people from Poland. Finally we found this square, which made great impession for us. Delicate flooded water, from different sides music played "live" music by three or four musicians, but they didn't disturbed one another. In a word, you would like to come back here for a little bit longer. Just after ten and a half at the evening, tired and hungry we decided to visit a restaurant. There we ate the first pizza, which since that moment became our almost daily dish during our stay in Italy. We came back to the campsite about one am, because wanted to be foreseeing and don't wanted to drive far away by bus, we got off two bus-stops earlier than we had to! But we slept very well and long, because till nine at the morning.

That day, for the first time "Italian" heat made ours life miserable. So much, that in Bolonia, after two hours of riding, we were so exhausted, that we decided to go to Genoa by train. With hope, that even though heats there be a possibility to refresh and cool ourselves on Azure Coast. And we did it in that way. About nine and a half in the evening, after six and a half hours spending in train, hungry again, we "landed" in Genoa. And before we found a correct direction to the campsite, it took some time. That's why we ate a meal at ten and a half at the evening. It was pizza, naturally! We ate it at the road on the sidewalk, drowned out by cars and already more stenching motorcycles and scooters. After eleven at the evening we reached the campsite, where we didn't sleep in the tent for the second and the last time. Simply the heat was so great and it was so late, that even sleeping bag was unnecessary. Although, or maybe just that's why we slept very well. And very long again.

Another day gone by with: firstly, the great heat, and secondary invariable of the scenery - at our left sea, at our right mountains. And during our riding at the Azure Coast we still heard not very nice sounds for our ears came from strange birds or insects (who was there knows what we are writing about). Then, for the first and the last time during this expedition, Chris dived in the sea. But he got out from there much faster than he got in there. Warm and very salt! Our Baltic Sea, cold and a little bit salt, is 188567 times better. Long live Baltic! This stage ended in Imperia, the place of our another campsite.

The next day, it started to make darker about midday, despite the sky was cloudless. When we were in Bordighera we saw many people in strange glasses. And then we found out that that day was eclipse of the sun. Just during this eclipse we were changing the currency from Italians liras into French francs what meaned we got to another country of our expedition. We crossed the border in Menton and after a several kilometers we visited Monako and Monte Carlo. Oh, it was wonderful when we were riding on the roads of Monte Carlo and thinking, that on the same roads, on the same tunel under the hotel, the Ferrari's One cars are driving, over 300 kilometres per hour. And we... barely 30 km/h. Ten times slower, but we saw ten times more! This day we saw Nicea too, and we slept in Cagnes, several kilometres behind Nicea.

Another day was next which wasn't so easy to survive. Just after we drove into Cannes Romek had a flat tyre. But this time change of it was much faster and a possibilities to wash hands greater... Feeded with crossaints with chocolate we were visiting this city of festivals. We wondered, if our Miedzyzdroje at the seaside are working for the "Polish Cannes"? That night we spent in Puget sur Argens on the campsite.

On the next day we left the coast and we changed direction of riding, to the Aux-en-Provence. From that place we planned to ride straight to the north in the directon of Paris. That day, for the first time, we saw the road sign with the name "Paris 645" - it was in front of us. So close and so far. But we didn't broke down and obstinately we were still riding. We ended that day in the place we had planned earlier - in Aux-en-Provence.

Another day we visited exquisite city - Avignon. Although the true is there's many more things that we haven't seen. That day finished in Bagnols sur Ceze, where we found a campsite.

The 15th of August passed away by without great revelations and finished in Andance.

Another day we have had the most nasty weather from all days of the trip, not only in France. But, despite of that, we visited Lyon a little bit. Just after we left this city we met another breakdown - this time Chris had a flat tyre. But the reperation was fast and well. And that day finished at the campsite in Macon.

On the 17th of August we admired uncounted numbers of castles and palaces hidden in the neighbourhood of small places. We finished the day in Arnay le Duc.

Another day first of all was riding without great surprises. At the end of the day we drove into Auxerre. But there were some very interesting and funny situations. It was a pity that on the stadium, which is situated near the campsite, wasn't a soccer game that day. We had a penchant to buy tickets and to cheer a little bit. To cheer on safely. But, if not match, there was something else. It turned out that we had a tent in the neighbourhood of very pleasant English pair, whose destroyed whole stereotype of Englishman - conservative. Despite of the fact our English was very poor, we managed to establish contact for so close, that they hosted us of wine and really after an hour and a half it was a pity to finish conservation.

On the next day, the 19th of August, we planned to be a few dozen kilometers on the south-east of Paris. But fate played trick on us once again. But in turn. That day there was quite strong wind, but after 3000 kilometres we used to such conditions. But we were riding and riding that way, we didn't imitate at all, and suddenly we found a broken spoke in Chris'es rear gear. Attempts of searching bike's service didn't give any effects, so the actual destination was either finding an accomodation or a train to... Paris. We managed to the second option, but Chris completely lost an air in the same tyre, which already had been destroyed. Absolutely "by the way" it turned out that the tread of tyre in some places was thensimply innertube. And we didn't know if it was fault of the tyre or maybe too much load on those tyre, but it was simply not for farther use. So, the last 70 kilometers to Paris we had gone by train. But it wasn't all the problems for that day. We found out ourselves in the center of great city without... any map. And even with map finding a campsite was very time-consuming and inconvenient (it took us about 30 minutes). Additionally the camping wasn't so near (about 10 kilometers), and the day was going into its end and one bike was out of order. Initially, walking by Paris took so many time, that we decided to glue an innertube in some way and to ride on that bike to the camping. And we managed to do it. About 9.30 pm we were at the campsite in Champigny sur Marne, where after very nourishing supper, about midnight, we felt asleep.

20th of August, provided with two books of tickets for underground, the plan of Paris and very general plan of what we wanted to visit, we went to conquest the capital of France. We started from the Bastilla Square. We can write many things about what we have seen there. We can write many, many more pages. Because Paris is very beutiful. Great and dirty some time, but beutiful. And beutiful is Louvre, Les Centre des Halles, Grande Arche, Church of Saint Eustachy, Les Invalides, etc. It turned out that the most wonderful in front of us. And we don't write about modest (sic!) shoppings, which we have made the day after, when we were rest a little bit. We forgot to write, that during visiting Paris on that day we care about our come back to Poland too. How? At the beginning we wanted to repair a bike, but probably both of us, though we didn't talk about it, felt, that it had to happened. That God watched over us since the beginning till Paris, which was unnamed destination of our trip. And He gave us very clear signs, that it was time to come back home. Therefore, after long time of searching, we found a travel agency "Karolina" and we bought the tickets for the bus to Katowice on the 23rd of August.

As it had been written before, that day we were resting a little bit.

On the 22nd of August we came back to visiting. Sacre Cour, Place de la Concorde, Stade de France (Polish fans are everywhere), Pantheon, Museum of Wines, Luxembourgs Gardens and namy more buildings, places, that will stay only in our memory. And, finally, at the end, just like crowning of all those hard days, which were behind us, we admired exquisite sunset. On the towers of Notre Dame. It was one of the most exquisite sunsets, that we have ever seen. Because the most wonderful one would might happen in the near future. But maybe about this another time, if ever.

On the 23rd of August, in morning hours, according to plan, we were leaving Paris, for the last time admiring its wonderful architecture.

That day we were in Poland. In the country, in which trains are so different from those French ones or Italian ones. In the country, where we haven't been so long. In the country, which is and will stay our home. In the country, where living all those people, who we live for. To whose we missed and for words of them we would give many. We came back home smiling and happy. With, possibly childish and naive faith that it's worth to have a dream. That is worth to make them happen. That is worth to wait...